September | 2008 | What Does John Know?

September 29th, 2008

Review: Ancient Ancient Age 10 year old

John Hansell

I usually review new whiskeys, but I’m making an exception here. Known affectionately by its followers as “Triple A”, I’ve been drinking this bourbon for many years and still enjoy it. It’s more expensive now than when I first started buying it in Kentucky (where most of it is sold) several years ago for about $10-$11, but this is still a very nice whiskey for a very good price. A true value bourbon. (Incidentally, don’t confuse this whiskey with Ancient Ancient Age Ten Star, which is a younger, completely different product.)

Ancient Ancient Age, 10 year old, 43%, $15
Not overly challenging. Stylish and very easy to embrace. This is the kind of bourbon I would introduce a new bourbon drinker to. Pleasingly sweet, with honeyed vanilla, graham cracker, candy corn, dates and golden raisin. Subtle spice too (cinnamon, mint, cocoa and nutmeg), leading to a smooth, silky finish. I would love to see this at 45% ABV, or even higher, as it comes across almost too soft. But for this price, I’m not complaining. A great value for about $15.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

Category: Bourbon, Reviews 9 Comments

September 27th, 2008

What’s causing the price increases in whisk(e)y?

John Hansell

We’ve been discussing how much whisk(e)y prices have increased so much more than inflation over the past few years. It seems to be across the board, from entry level to high-end whiskies. So, I was wondering, what’s causing the price increases?

I know the cost of grain has gone up but recently but, if a whisky is 15 years old, the price of barley over the past couple years has no bearing on a 15 year old whisky. If not the cost of ingredients, what then? Is it the cost of bottling and packaging? Transportation? New investments in increased production?

Are the producers taking a bigger margin? Importers? Wholesalers? Retailers?

You are an intelligent bunch of whisky enthusiasts and represent the spectrum of the whisky world. What are your thoughts on this? Why are we paying so much more for whisk(e)y?

Category: Opinions 35 Comments

September 26th, 2008

Review: Four Roses Mariage Collection 2008 Release

John Hansell

Four Roses Mariage Collection, 2008 Release, 55.7%, $70
Silky in texture and gently sweet. This new “Mariage Collection” release shows a softer, more elegant side of Four Roses when compared to other Four Roses bottling (including the most recent limited edition 120th Anniversary bottling, which was a much bolder affair). Notes of candied fruit, black raspberry, blueberry, creamy vanilla, corn bread and chamomile tea. Delicately spicy too, with a polished oak finish. Clean on the palate, and very drinkable. Four Roses utilizes a wide variety of mash bills and yeast strains and has the ability to produce a diverse array of whiskeys. This “Mariage” offering is a good example of this.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

As you may have noticed, not only do I use this blog to get you reviews fast, but I also like to go behind the scenes and give you background information that you might not otherwise get. I asked Jim Rutledge, Four Roses Master Distiller, about this particular bottling of Four Roses, and here’s what he had to say. (You will need your Four Roses Distillery secret decoder ring to interpret it.)

We worked on the Mariage concept for over a year. The idea was to showcase the infinite product variability we have with our ten Bourbon recipes – all with unique flavor profiles. This year I can’t even begin to tell you how many blend formulas we tested. We knew the first year we wanted to use only two recipes/flavors to marry, but using different ages and percentages of the recipes the number is still exhausting.

I’m not sure what information was printed on the label, but we used two different mashbills and two yeasts. We used 70% OBSV – “B” is our highest rye content mashbill – @ 35%, and “V” is the yeast that generates a light and delicate fruity flavor. (This is the recipe we use for our regular Single Barrel Bourbon, but it has been aged considerably longer – 13 years.) The other recipe used at 30% was OESK – “E” is our mashbill that consists of 20% rye and “K” is the yeast that generates a bit of spicy character. (I see nutmeg more than any other spice.)

As we experimented with formulas our goal was to have an exceptionally mellow and smooth Bourbon with characters different than the individual components. 1 + 1 does not = 2.

We had a customer in for a private barrel selection yesterday and we let the three people that made the trip to our warehouse facility sample Mariage. We all tasted it and absolutely No One would/could ever guess that what we sipped was nearly 108 proof. I can’t imagine adding even a very small ice cube to Mariage. It is absolutely the smoothest Bourbon with the softest finish I have ever had the pleasure of sipping.

There you have it. Straight from the horse’s mouth.

Category: Bourbon, New Releases, Reviews 2 Comments

September 25th, 2008

Review: New Glenfiddich 1977 Vintage

John Hansell

Glenfiddich (Cask #4414), 1977 Vintage, 54.1%, $750
Very elegant and refined. Obviously this whisky was aged in a pristine sherry cask. The flavors are very clean and well-defined. Gently sweet and fruity, with golden raisin, candy apple, and red raspberry jam. There’s delicate pineapple, dried cherry, coconut and vanilla too, with a polished oak finish. A very classy Glenfiddich. Not as bold and spicy as last year’s 1976 vintage (which I had a hand in selecting but, ironically, don’t like as much). This new vintage approaches the caliber of the 1973 Vintage release from two years ago which I still think is the best one in recent years.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases, Reviews, Scotch whisky 4 Comments

September 24th, 2008

Review: Bruichladdich “Sherry Editions”

John Hansell

Bruichladdich was closed between 1994 and 2000 except for June and July, 1998. These two whiskies were distilled during that time. Both whiskies were made the same way except that they were aged in different sherry casks: one in oloroso sherry; the other in manzanilla sherry. Both are nicely done and entertaining whiskies for only about ten years of aging.

Bruichladdich Sherry Edition (Manzanilla), 1998 vintage, 46%, $100
The freshest of the two, with appetizing brine, honey, lemon rock candy, golden raisin and peach. Subtle ginger, toasted marshmallow, and coconut round out the palate. Very bright and lively.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Bruichladdich Sherry Edition (Oloroso), 1998 vintage, 46%, $100
Less appetizing brine and zing, and showing more “weight” when compared to its sibling. Sweeter notes of toffee, fig, and vanilla fudge lay the foundation for mixed nuts, black raspberry, plum, nectarine, and ripe red grape. A soothing dram.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86

Category: New Releases, Reviews, Scotch whisky 8 Comments

September 22nd, 2008

How are you storing your whisky?

John Hansell

With the prices of whisky (and whiskey) going up so much, many of you are sitting on whisky you bought years ago at a lower price, or you are buying now in bulk to save a few bucks. Either way, you’re sitting on some bottles of whisky.

Rich, over at my thread on whisky values, thought it might be a good idea to discuss how we’re all storing our whisky, and I agree.

So, how are you storing your whisky? I’ll start by telling you what I’m doing.

I know that I’m not as meticulous or scientific as some of you might be. I have a bar and a whisky “library” in my basement. My whiskies are all sitting on shelves, upright, and out of sunlight or fluorescent lighting at room temperature.

My “library” is a room leading to my bar which stores all my unopened bottles. (Yes, I plan to drink every one of them, with some help, before I die. They are for eventual drinking.) They are arranged by category and region so I can access them as needed. I don’t put any tape or sealant around the bottle stoppers, but I do keep an eye on their levels. If I see one starting to lose volume, it gives me an excuse to open it up and drink it with my friends or perhaps at one of the whisky tastings I host.

My bar is where I keep my opened bottles, again arranged by category. For bottles that I think I will have for more than 3-6 months, I use an inert gas. There are a few commercial products on the market, but what I use is Private Preserve. I shoot a few quick squirts into the bottle before I put the stopper back on after pouring. The gas displaces the oxygen. I have not had any problems, and it is fairly easy to use and very inexpensive.

What about the rest of you? What works? What doesn’t? Any horror stories you want to share with us?

Category: Opinions, Whisky storage 35 Comments

September 22nd, 2008

Three Antiquary scotch blends: one’s a winner!

John Hansell

It’s nice to see this blend becoming more available here in the U.S. All three have their attributes, but the one that really surprised me was the 21 year old with its seamless flavors, rich malt foundation and great balance. One of the best blends I’ve tasted this year.

The Antiquary, 12 year old, 40%, $30
Floral aroma with a lively array of lively orchard fruit and citrus. Underlying notes of soft honey and vanilla. Good malt foundation for a blend. An elegant and breezy “anytime” dram.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

The Antiquary, 21 year old, 43%, $100
Drier than the 12 year old (reviewed above), with some darker fruit (black raspberry, blueberry) marrying with the brighter orchard fruit. Sweet up from, with honey and caramel, with a peppering of spice (dried vanilla, clove, and cinnamon) increasing as the palate develops. Dry, oak spice finish. Lovely.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 94

The Antiquary, 1977 vintage, 46%, $300
Deep on the nose and palate, with notes of dark rum, dried fruit, roasted nuts, dark chocolate, cinnamon, polished leather, charcoal and a suggestion of peat. Dry, resinous finish. Bonus points for intrigue.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Category: Reviews, Scotch whisky 3 Comments

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