August 4th, 2010

Review: two whiskey barrel aged rye beers

John Hansell

The reason why I initially named the magazine “Malt Advocate” is because the magazine equally covered beer and whisky. (Malt being the common thread.) I was a beer writer before I wrote about whisky.

I still have been reviewing beer, freelance,  for America’s longest running beer magazine, All About Beer. (A great magazine, by the way, if you are a beer enthusiast.)

I’ve now decided to focus my beer reviewing efforts back here, under the Malt Advocate umbrella. So, to kick things off,  I thought I would write about these two beers I recently received. Both have a whiskey connection: the are beers made with rye and aged in whiskey barrels. Their oak aging is evident but not excessive. They are best enjoyed at cellar temperature. And as you can see from my rating, I like both of them.

HE’BREW “R.I.P.A on Rye”(beer on left) is a rye double IPA aged in rye whiskey barrels.  (Six year old Sazerac Rye barrel, in case you were going to ask.) It checks in at 10% ABV. A sipping beer for sure. The bitter hop notes mask some of the rye spice, but there’s still plenty of rye spice to go around. I can really taste the spicy and citrus rye notes in the beer, along with the caramel, vanilla,  apricot, dark chocolate, espresso bean, and gritty, dry, rye barrel notes emerging and concentrating on the finish. Very bold and dynamic. ($12)

Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

RY(e)AN ALE is beer produced by Smuttynose brewery for Julio’s Liquors. It’s simply described as a “rye ale aged in bourbon barrels.” (Buffalo Trace and Four Roses, for the record.) It doesn’t have the hoppy bitterness like the HE’BREW beer (it’s smoother too!), but it sure is full-bodied  (as it should be, if it wants to stand up to the wood) and fairly strong, logging in at 7.7% ABV. I can smell and taste the charred oak influence. It’s rich, sweet and malty, with chewy caramel, molasses, malted milk balls, plum skin, black cherry, licorice and pleasant orchard fruit for balance. Liquid Dessert! ($9)

Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: Beer,Bourbon,Rye whiskey Tags: 32 Comments

July 28th, 2010

Sharing a Michael Jackson Story with you

John Hansell

I was in London, in the Diageo offices on this particular morning. Diageo was introducing several new limited edition whiskies, and a handful of whisky writers were getting a preview. Among the attendees was my good friend Michael Jackson.

We sampled probably close to a dozen whiskies, with the tasting concluding around lunchtime. I hadn’t seen Michael for several months, so I suggested we have lunch together. We weren’t far away from the Fuller’s Brewery and he said he knew of a great Fuller’s pub just down from the brewery along the Thames called The Dove. It was a short stroll away, so that’s where we went.

Well, the Fuller’s Chiswick Bitter was in perfect condition, so we each had a pint before lunch. With lunch, it was a pint each of Fuller’s London Pride. Delicious!

We were finishing up our lunch, having a great time together getting caught up with stories ab0ut our travels, the whisky business, etc. Not wanting the good times to end, I proposed we each have another pint. It was about 2:oo pm, and I didn’t have any plans for the rest of the afternoon.

Michael hesitated for a moment, contemplating the whiskies we tasted in the morning, along with the the two pints of beer we enjoyed with lunch. Then he responded, with a slight grin (like he has in the picture I included of him above):

“Better make mine a half pint, John. I have a Five O’clock deadline for a story I’m doing for the Independent. It’s on vodka. I need to go back to my office, taste 20 vodkas and then write the story.”

I just cracked up laughing! I don’t know if it was exactly 20 vodkas, but it was something like that. And I (unfortunately) never did get to read the vodka story in the Independent, but I sure am glad I wasn’t the Independent’s copy editor that day. :)

Category: Beer,Humor,Opinions,Writers Tags: , 23 Comments

June 21st, 2010

Drink anything fun on Father’s Day?

John Hansell

We enjoyed some great beer on tap (The Lost Abbey Carnivale), delicious wine (Shafer Relentless), and the Glenfarclas 150th Anniversary bottle that I opened up on Friday after our daughter Shannon’s High School graduation. I even finished the evening with one of my favorite cigars (an Arturo Fuente Don Carlos Robusto).

How about you? What were you drinking yesterday?

Category: Beer,Scotch whisky,Special events,Wine Tags: , , 47 Comments

June 9th, 2010

What I drank on my 50th birthday. And why.

John Hansell

Well, it was actually my 50th birthday–plus one day. My birthday was this past Monday, June 7th, but I didn’t celebrate until yesterday due to a nasty stomach virus on Monday. I waited 50 years. I figured I could wait one more.

Here’s the line-up. (In order of consumption, left to right, in the picture on the left. Click on the picture to get a larger view.) These were enjoyed over several hours during the evening with friends. I’ll tell you a little bit about what I drank, why I drank them, and how they tasted.

Framboise Boon Lambic (1986 Vintage)

I love Belgian beer and have been to Belgium several times touring their breweries. (I was a beer writer long before I became a whisky writer.) This was our aperitif beer, and what we enjoyed with our cranberry walnut salad. For those of you not familiar with lambic beers, they are spontaneously fermented beers, a Belgian specialty, aged in barrels, often with fruit added (in this case raspberries), traditionally bottled in champagne bottles and corked, and age very well. This one is one of my favorites. I purchased a case when they were brought into the U.S. back in the 1990s. It’s my last bottle, and it was still stunning. It has softened over the years (yes, you read correctly–it’s a 1986 vintage), and the raspberry influence has calmed down, but the balance of flavors and complexity were still there. Belgium’s answer to the finest champagne.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild (2001 Vintage)

Rather than going with the legendary 2000 vintage (which is still too young to drink for this First Growth Bordeaux) I opted for the excellent, yet more approachable, 2001 vintage. And it did not disappoint. After two hours of decanting and breathing, this gem of a wine was bold, yet complex, with great structure, solid tannins, and held up well with the amazing meat loaf (this was not your mother’s meat loaf, mind you), chipotle corn salad, grilled vegetables, and twice baked potato.

Chateau Rieussec Sauternes (2001 Vintage)

I would pay just to smell this outstanding dessert wine. It’s from the classic 2001 vintage, and I understand why the Wine Spectator rated this a perfect 100. Even my wife Amy enjoyed it, and she doesn’t like dessert wines. Sweet? Yes! But very elegant and floral, with complex fruit and just enough acidity to cut through the sweetness. We enjoyed it on its own, and then along with a variety of desserts (creme brulee, Key Lime cheese cake, and Belgian chocolate) just to see how they interacted with the wine. I decided that this lovely Sauternes was just perfect on its own, and needed no accompaniment.

A. H. Hirsch Reserve Straight Bourbon Whiskey (18 years old, 46.5%)

This is a whiskey blog, so I better start talking about whiskey.

And yes, this is not a typo on the age statement. For those of you who thought the legendary A. H. Hirsch (a.k.a. Michter’s) bourbon was only sold at 16 and 20 years old, think again. I purchased this rarity at Park Avenue Liquor in NYC back in the early 1990s. There appears to be a label behind the label that’s showing. From what I remember, I believe Herb Lapchin (who used the be the whiskey guy there at the time) told me that the whiskey was originally labeled as a 17 year old, but by the time the whiskey was finally bottled, it was past its 18th birthday so they slapped an 18 year old label over the original label. That’s what I remember, but I can’t say it is 100% accurate. Maybe someone from Park Ave can chime in here?

This whiskey is mellow, soft, and sweet with plenty of molasses and maple syrup to go around. A soothing whiskey, and very much a digestif. I have bottles of the 16 and 20, but none open right now. Eventually, I would like to compare this 18 year old to its two siblings.

(A side note: the cork fell apart when I opened it. I had to decant it, take out all the cork pieces, and re-cork it with a new cork. Some advice to the newbies here: save some of the corks from the bottles you empty. You might need them down the road.)

Longrow, 19 year old, 46%

We left the dining room and retired to a glowing campfire out back. The sun had just set, the wood thrushes were finishing their songs for the evening, and the stars were beginning to shine brightly.

I purchased this classic peated Springbank back in the early to mid 1990s at Sam’s Wine’s & Spirits in Chicago, from the legendary “Joe C.” (Rest in peace, my good friend. You will never be forgotten.)

Yes, this was a last minute change. You will recall I was contemplating drinking a 1973 vintage Longrow, which didn’t have an age statement. Well, I eventually opted for this one. This one is the opposite of the 1973 vintage. It’s a 19 year old, but there’s no vintage statement. (I’m not sure why some of the whiskies from the legendary 1973 and 1974 vintage Longrow, had age statements but not vintage declaration, why some had the vintage declaration but no age statement, and why some had both. Perhaps someone from Springbank is lurking out there and can answer this question?)

Regardless, I was completely blown away by this whisky. A complete stunner, and my favorite drink of the evening! Complex, dynamic, bursting with peat-infused brine. This is why I fell in love with Springbank’s whiskies, and why I fell in love with the peated Longrow. Indeed, this is why I fell in love with whisky! ‘Nuff said.

Thomas Hardy’s Ale, 150th Anniversary Edition (1987 Vintage)

From the legendary Eldridge Pope Brewery, in Southwest England, which I toured in the early 1990s, to the chagrin of my wife, who was with me for the duration. (Sorry, Amy.) I have a friend (Roger) who used to work at Eldridge Pope (and also at the Eaglesomes shop in Campbeltown where he helped me score the two legendary “Green” Springbanks. It’s a small world, isn’t it?)

Roger is the one who gave me this bottle when he came to visit me in the mid 1990s. He got it when he worked there. In fact, he helped me source many vintages of Thomas Hardy’s Ale, and I still have at least one bottle from most vintages, including the original 1968 vintage.

Unlike standard Hardy’s, this one actually had a cork stopper, not metal. Roger told me that it had a cork when he gave it to me, so I had been aging it on its side to keep it from drying out, but the cork still crumbled to pieces when I opened it up.

I’ll be honest with you. I’ve tasted over 25 different vintages of Hardy’s, and this is the finest one I have ever tasted. An absoluted stunner! The sweetness had softened. There were undertones of delicate sherry, cherry stones, and pit fruit. An alcoholic beverage that transcends category. It is what every Thomas Hardy’s Ale aspires to be, but rarely is.

Finally, we finished the evening, admiring the buring embers of the fire, with a Partagas Series D No. 4 Reserva 200o Vintage cigar, which I purchased on a trip to the Caymans two years ago. I slowly sipped some more Hardy’s, reflecting on 50 years of life.

As Jimmy Buffett sang: “…some of it’s magic, some of it’s tragic, but I’ve had a good life, all the way.”

Here’s to the next 50, my friends…

Category: Beer,Bourbon,Cigars,Opinions,Scotch whisky,Special events,Wine Tags: , , , , , , , , 43 Comments

May 24th, 2010

I’m turning 50. Which whisky should I drink?

John Hansell

I’m now moving on to something less serious (but no less significant) than my post this past Friday. Yes, it’s true. I’m hitting the big 5-0 on June 7th. I’m going to be pulling out all the stops, drinking great beer, wine, and whisky! (More on the beer and wine at a later date.)

This is a very special occasion, so I’ve dug deep into the Hansell archives and pulled out three special whiskies. (Pictured, and click on the picture for a larger view.) One of them I will open up on my birthday. I need your help picking which one.

The first one: The very first vintage of Longrow, the peated expression of Springbank. It’s a 1973 vintage and it’s bottled at the distillery’s traditional 46%. There is no age statement.

The second one: An old distillation of Ardbeg. It’s a Cadenhead’s bottling, distilled back in October, 1965 and bottled almost 30 years ago in December, 1980. This one is also bottled at 46%.

The last one: An old distillation of Talisker. It’s a Gordon & MacPhail bottling, distilled back in 1973. There is no indication of age or bottling date. It’s bottled at 57%.

One final note: the level of whisky in each bottle looks good, so I don’t think there has been much evaporation in any of them. Therefore, this shouldn’t be a factor in our decision-making process.

So, which bottle do you think I should I open? And why?

(P.S. I have a few bottles of whisky distilled from 1960. I might open one of those up too in addition to one of the three pictured above. Stay tuned for that.)

Category: Beer,Scotch whisky,Special events,Wine 86 Comments

April 27th, 2010

Anchor Brewery (and Distillery) sold!

John Hansell

This is the big news of the day here in the U.S. I’m seeing several news sources reporting it right now, but here’s one from Inc. Magazine. Give it a read.

What does the selling of a brewery have to do with whiskey? For starters, Anchor also makes whiskey (Old Potrero). In fact, Anchor, and its leader Fritz Maytag, pioneered the craft distilling movement here in the U.S., similar to how they lead the craft beer movement a couple decades ago.

The other connection to whiskey is the company buying Anchor: The Griffin Group. A couple years ago they purchased a major position in Preiss Imports. Preiss Imports bring into the U.S. Springbank, Duncan Taylor, BenRiach, GlenDronach, as well as distributing the Hirsch line of American whiskeys.

I’m not sure what all the synergisms are yet, but I am sure they will all play out in due time.

Category: American whiskey,Beer,Breaking news,Microdistilleries Tags: 37 Comments

November 24th, 2009

Pairing whisky and cigars

John Hansell

Tonight I’m going to Cigar Aficionado’s “Big Smoke.” It’s the cigar equivalent of a WhiskyFest. In fact, Big Smoke is held in the same room as WhiskyFest New York at the Marriott Marquis on Times Square in New York City. (We comp them a couple tickets to WhiskyFest and they do the same for us with the Big Smoke.)

I know that some of you would never even think of smoking a cigar, let alone smoking one while enjoying a whisky. But, for over 25 years, I have enjoyed an occasional cigar–and something good to drink with it.

Sometimes I’ll have rich, malty full-bodied beer to go with my cigar. Other times, I’ll have a nice vintage port wine. But many times I’ll enjoy a whisky with my cigar.

I don’t have a specific pairing, but I generally DON’T drink smoky whiskies with cigars, because cigars are already smoky. Rather, I look for something to complement my cigar–like a rich sherried Speysider or full-bodied bourbon.

For those of you who enjoy a cigar with your whisky (or whiskey), do you have a favorite pairing? If so, tell us what it is.

Category: Beer,Bourbon,Cigars,Events,Scotch whisky Tags: 32 Comments

November 15th, 2009

Auchentoshan…beer?

John Hansell

Auchentoshan beerYes, Auchentoshan beer!

Knowing that I am an enthusiast of all things malt (and that I was actually a beer writer before writing about whisky), my contact at Morrison Bowmore Distillers sent me two bottles of an ale that was made at the Auchentoshan distillery.

I cracked open the first bottle the other night and enjoyed it very much. Above is a very rudimentary picture I took of it with my Blackberry shortly before I drank it. (It was a little yeasty–my fault for not letting the bottle settle before drinking it–but I was too eager to drink it.)

Here are the specifics on the beer, directly from Jeremy Stephens, Head Distiller at Auchentoshan.

I spent several week putting together different recipes and doing small scale brews of around 17 litres.

After a few dodgy batches, I was finally happy with two recipes, which became Summer Gold and Triple Conditioned Ales.

I then bought in a few new pieces of kit and converted the yeast store into ‘The Brewery’.

A summary of the process is outlined below:

The malted barley is mashed in the distillery mash tun and the wort is transferred into the washbacks as usual.

A few buckets of the incoming wort are taken from the wort transfer line and poured into two 100 litre stainless steel boilers.

The gravity of the wort is usually too strong for ale production, so it is diluted with water to a lower starting gravity.

The temperature of the wort is raised to around 65 degrees C and a small amount of crystal malt is added and held for 30 minutes.

The temperature is then increased to 100 degrees C and brought to the boil.

At this point, the bitterness hops are added to give the beer its characteristic bitter taste.

After 45 min of boiling, copper finings are added to help precipitate and remove the hop solids to help give a clearer starting liquid.

After a further 15 min of boiling, the boilers are turned off and the late hop is added to give the desired fruity aroma.

This is then left to infuse for a further 30 min.

The hopped wort is then cooled on transfer to a 200 litres stainless steel fermenter (essentially just a big cylindrical bucket!) to around 20 degrees C and ale yeast is added.

Once full, the fermenter is moved into the tun room where the wort is fermented for around 2 days and the gravity drops to around 1008.

Towards the end of the fermentation, two lots of finings are added to the green beer to help remove the solids to give a presentable ‘bright’ beer.

The clearer beer is then transferred into pressure kegs, where a small amount of primings are added to facilitate secondary fermentation and are left to warm condition for 3 days.  The pressure is let off the kegs after around 24 hours to release any unwanted gases and resealed and conditioning continues.

The kegs are then moved to cold storage for around a week, after which time, the beer becomes clear, fizzy and drinkable (at least, I think so!)  We normally get around 150 litres of beer per batch.

The beer is then either left in keg, from where it was dispensed as cask ale at the Festival or transferred into bottle along with a tiny amount of primings for bottle conditioning.  The cask ale can be drunk immediately, but the bottles are best left for around 3 weeks to lose their sweetness and allow proper conditioning in bottle.

The Triple Conditioned is made similarly, but with more malt adjuncts, different hops and is primed with 3 substrates: honey, wort and sugar (hence the name ‘Triple Conditioned’).

The biggest problem was to ensure consistency as each batch performed slightly differently.

I will aim for a lower final alcohol concentration next year, as although the beer is very drinkable in bottle for the first 3 months, it does take on a much fuller body with less fruit and more malt as it ages.  Reducing the alcohol content to around 4.5% abv would help reduce the ‘syrupy’ nature of the aged beer.  However, beer drinkers who like a strong, fizzy ale would probably be advised to leave the bottle for a few months to achieve these flavour changes.  I gave the best before date as 5th October as I didn’t have time to do proper ‘forcing tests’ (shelf-life tests), so didn’t want to take any chances with the general public complaining the beer had gone off!  However, it should be good until well after Christmas.

Please remember to put the beer in the fridge for a short while (10 to 12 degrees C is optimal or below 6 degrees C if you’re entertaining lager drinkers) and keep it upright as it does contain a small amount of sediment.  Please also pour carefully as it is likely to be quite gassy now, and you don’t want to bring the sediment at the bottom of the bottle into the glass (unless, like many beer enthusiasts, you like the natural flavours and haze of the yeast and other settled products).

We sold 850 pints of Summer Gold Ale and 170 pints of Triple Conditioned Ale in 6 hours at the Festival – that’s a pint every 20 seconds!

We also packaged 750 bottles for sale, of which 250 were sold at the Festival and all but 9 of the remaining 500 bottles were sold in the shop.  You have 2 of the remaining 9 bottles. 

Yes, and now I have just 1 of the remaining 8 bottles! :)   Cool stuff going on at the distilleries.

Category: Beer,Scotch whisky Tags: 9 Comments

October 26th, 2009

After a weekend full of bourbon, three things: scotch, beer, and…

John Hansell

The flu!! I somehow picked this up during my weekend with the Heaven Hill folks.

 

084Here’s the scotch. They arrived while I was gone. They’re samples of the most recent Diageo special release single malts. They look very tempting, don’t they?

 

 

 

 

 

 

086And here are the beers, which also showed up. They’re from Midnight Sun brewery in Alaska. One of my side jobs is that I review beer for America’s largest beer magazine, All About Beer.

 

 

 

 

 

So, for the next few days, these fine beverage are going to have to sit there and collect dust. I’m not sure who gave it (the flu) to me or what kind it is, but it sucks!

Still, I have fond memories of my weekend with the Heaven Hill folks, putting a nice dent into their inventory, and that will get me through this.

And don’t worry, I’ll still be blogging. I was going to take the next two days off and go fishing, but now it looks like it’s just me, my laptop, and the TV. (Maybe even a book!) Plus, I reviewed several whiskies (and whiskeys) last week which are in the queue here.

Category: Beer,Bourbon,Events,Scotch whisky Tags: , 12 Comments

Malt Advocate magazine is the number one source for whisky information, education and entertainment for whisky enthusiasts.

Find out more