August 23rd, 2010

Guest Review: Dave Broom Reviews Japan’s Nikka whiskies

John Hansell

Nikka is Japan’s second biggest whisky producer with a large range covering blends, single grain, as well as blended and single malts from its two distilleries, Miyagikyo and Yoichi. A little bird tells me that these will be available in the States later this year. Here’s a “Nikka” taster.

Coffey Malt, 12 year old, 55%, £99
Produced at Miyagikyo’s grain distillery from 100% malted barley, this is rich gold in hue, while the nose is big and luscious with plenty of ripe banana, crushed hazelnut, and an intriguing green malt note behind. As it opens, there’s the effect of a highcocoa chocolate bar melting in your hands, as well as coconut, vanilla fudge, and basil. With water (and it needs it) there’s honey on hot buttered toast. The palate is sumptuous; that banana’s now flambéed. Super ripe and fascinating. A grain for malt lovers. – Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95

Nikka From The Barrel, 51.4%, £24.95 (50cl)
A high-strength blend that takes no prisoners. The color is full gold and the first thing that hits the nose is a complex mix of restrained smoke (sandalwood, cigar), fennel, and celery before semi-dried tropical fruits and orange peel take over. The palate also shows some of that mango character, but also crisp oak and a burst of sweet powdered spices on the finish. A maltlover’s
blend.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

Miyagikyo, 15 year old, 45%, £76.95
This single malt bottling shows Miyagikyo’s emollient style at its best. This is all about super-soft orchard fruits; think apricot and sweet persimmon, though there’s also a touch of sweet sawdust and even a whiff of pine sap and milk chocolate. It demonstrates the classic Japanese trick of being both clear and precise in its aromas, as well as being heightened in intensity. The
palate is a little slow to start with, offering a mix of spruce and pine, then those soft fruits carry you onward. In some ways the gentle charms of Miyagikyo are overshadowed by the rambunctious nature of From The Barrel and Yoichi, but soft is a worthy element in Japanese — nay, all — whisky.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Yoichi 15 year old, 45%, £76.95
Nikka’s first distillery is located in the eponymous town on the western coast of Hokkaido. Here, power is the key. Deep and rich with a distinct oiliness — somewhere between linseed and cod liver — there’s also plenty of smoke in the mix as well, and a little hint of black olives in brine with ripe apples lurking behind. I hate making comparisons between Japanese and Scotch single malt but if I was forced to, Yoichi reminds me most of Springbank (edging into Longrow). Water dampens the personality too much for me; best have it full-on and uncompromising. Rather than the palate showing a slow procession of flavors along the tongue, this is a layered whisky; coal-like, oily, and richly fruited with a distinct saltiness on the sides, ably demonstrating that Japan has almost as much variety on offer as scotch.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95

Category: Japanese whisky,Reviews Tags: 10 Comments

August 20th, 2010

Guest Review: Ichiro’s Malt, Mizunara Wood Reserve (bottled 2010), 46%, £85

John Hansell

The Ichiro of the title is Ichiro Akuto, scion of the family which owned the now demolished Hanyu distillery, and proprietor of the brand new and incredibly cute (yes…distilleries can be cute) Chichibu distillery — even the name’s cute. This release is a vatting of different (un-named) single malts from more than one distillery which have been aged in Japanese oak (mizunara, or Q. Mongolica). Mizunara has a highly distinctive aromatic spectrum — the Japanese say that it smells of temples, specifically the incense which scents Zen temples, but while totally accurate, that’s not much help if you haven’t been to one. Think of a heavy, exotic aroma of allspice, sandalwood, even redwood, and you’re almost there. In fact, if you think of the perfumed aspects of rye, but turned up a notch, then you’re in the right ballpark. In this one there’s even a hint of trail bar — maybe it’s a hike in a California old-growth forest. The palate is soft and slow to start, then picks up mouthwatering acidity — there’s that rye parallel. Green plum and peach, balanced with spiciness on the end. Once encountered, never forgotten.– Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: Japanese whisky,Reviews 1 Comment

August 19th, 2010

Guest Review: White Oak 5 year old, 45%, £55

John Hansell

The Eigashima distillery, on the Akashi Strait near Kobe, may be the least well known of Japan’s single malt plants, but has a sound claim to be the country’s oldest, as its license tomake whisky was granted in 1919 — four years before Yamazaki was built. It has, however, specialized in shochu, and even now only turns its hand to whisky making for two months every year. This 5 year old — bottled for independent Japanese specialist Number One Drinks — represents a tentative move into the single malt market once more. Pale in color, it shows a typically Japanese cleanliness on the nose that’s cut with a touch of waxiness. It opens with a scented angelica-like lift, there’s even a whiff of something like gooseberry jam. As it opens, the aroma darkens slightly, showing a touch of roasted tea. Water brings out a little yeastiness (typical for some younger whiskies), alongside cucumber, borage, and lime. The palate is sweet with vanilla custard and a sweet, ginger-accented note leading to ripe pear. A charming malt, and already well-balanced for its age. Here’s Japan at its lightest. – Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 80

Category: Japanese whisky,Reviews 2 Comments

August 18th, 2010

Guest Review: Karuizawa cask 4592, 1977 (bottle 2010), ’Noh Series,’ 60.7%, £130

John Hansell

The (sadly mothballed) Karuizawa distillery is at the opposite extreme to Eigashima. Peated malt, small stills, and sherry casks give a single malt of uncompromising weight and solidity. Those of you who thought Japan was all about the ethereal and limpid, think again. In musical terms, if Eigashima is the Modern Jazz Quartet, then Karuizawa is late period Coltrane, or if you prefer, it’s Black Flag to Eigashima’s Carole King. Anyhoo, did I mention this bottling (like all of this quartet from Number One Drinks) is green? Or at least has a color akin to tarnished silver? The note is all chicory and coffee, earthiness and cardamom — whisky reduced to some weird essence by long maturation. The effect is one of an old-fashioned cough medicine(with less laudanum). The palate is explosive with masses of camphor, tar, licorice, and squid ink. This is Japanese whisky at its most extreme, and fainthearts should not venture here. Those with a taste for the big and the bold will love it, however. – Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: Japanese whisky,Reviews 9 Comments

August 17th, 2010

Guest Review: Ichiro’s Malt, Hanyu 23 year old “sherry casks,” 58%, £450

John Hansell

Japanese whiskies are hot property in Europe these days, but for some reason few have yet to penetrate the US market. In the following reviews over the next two weeks, Dave Broom either gives you the heads up on what’s available or taunts you by talking about whiskies you can’t try.  We prefer the former.

This oldie (from a distillery which closed in 2000) seems pretty straightforward compared to the Mizunara [see following review], but has less dried fruit than the sherry note on the label might suggest. Think dried peels rather than raisin, then stir in some freshly-polished floor. The aromas are saturated and heavy — almost as if they are drifting towards you on humid air. The palate shows light smoke and then a pleasant quinine bitterness mid-palate. This has the Japanese quality of laying flavors out very precisely on the tongue while also heightening their intensity. Water reduces the quinine effect, allowing the richness of the spirit to come through. Hanyu was a pretty big and firm (even rigid) whisky. Here that shell has cracked, allowing anise and blueberry to come through. – Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: Japanese whisky,Reviews 7 Comments

August 11th, 2009

Which young whiskies are better than their older siblings?

John Hansell

This is an offshoot of my recent blog posting on over-priced whiskies.

Give us some examples where you feel the younger (and less expensive) bottling from a distillery is actually better than the older (and more expensive) offering.

I think this is an excellent topic to discuss, because it can save a lot of people money and disappointment. I’ll get the ball rolling by starting off with four examples.

I like Macallan 18 over the 25 yr. old.

I prefer Caol Ila 12  to the 18 yr. old.

I like Suntory Yamazaki 18  more than their 25 yr. old.

And I’ll take just about any Evan Williams over their 23 yr. old offering for the export market (too much wood for me).

So, let’s see your comparisons. Include all whiskies, not just scotch. And if you can, list the prices of the whiskies too!

Category: Bourbon,Irish whiskey,Japanese whisky,Opinions,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky 35 Comments

August 11th, 2009

Review: Suntory Yamazaki 1984 Vintage

John Hansell

Suntory Yamazaki, 1984 Vintage, 48%, $600
The first vintage Suntory Yamazaki offered in the U.S. (300 bottles will be available in October.) A portion of this whisky is aged in Japanese Oak. Heavy aroma, with lush sherried fruit and deep juicy oak, marrying with firmly dry and spicy oak resin (the Japanese oak influence is obvious). This same profile follows through on the palate: ripe berried fruit, raisin, blackberry jam, plum spiced with cinnamon, vanilla spearmint, roasted nuts and gripping leather. All this, lying on a bed of molasses and toffee. The Japanese Oak really kicks in on its invigoratingly spicy, warm, resinous finish. Very elderly in nature, but remains very exciting and dynamic, even with all the oak.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: Japanese whisky,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 8 Comments

July 29th, 2009

Suntory Yamazaki to debut 1984 Single Malt Whisky

John Hansell

For the first time ever, Suntory will be selling a vintage single malt in the U.S. It’s a 1984 vintage, and it will be available here in October. I have a sample and will be posting up my review shortly.

The press release, along with a nice background on Japanese whisky-making and the history of Japanese whisky, follows.

SUNTORY YAMAZAKI 1984 SINGLE MALT WHISKY
The Distinctive Whisky of Japan

(July 29, 2009) – New York, NY… Suntory Limited proudly announces the limited introduction of YAMAZAKI 1984 Single Malt Whisky in the US, commemorating the company’s 110th anniversary as well as the 25th anniversary of the YAMAZAKI brand.  This October, only 300 individually-numbered bottles of this precious liquid will be released in the United States. 

Smooth and full-bodied, Suntory YAMAZAKI is the superlative single malt whisky of Japan.  YAMAZAKI 1984 has a distinctive, cinnamon-like flavor, the result of its key malt, aged in Japanese mizunara casks, the hidden treasure of Suntory. All of the malt whiskies featured in YAMAZAKI 1984 were originally distilled in 1984. The new YAMAZAKI 1984 joins the existing marques, aged for 12 or 18 years. 

About Yamazaki 1984
Handcrafted at the oldest distillery in Japan, Suntory YAMAZAKI 1984 is made from the purest natural ingredients distilled through the art of Japanese craftsmanship in perfect harmony with nature.  Indeed, Suntory YAMAZAKI is made with the same pure water used in Japan’s most esteemed tea ceremonies.  With a rich, sophisticated character all its own, Yamazaki’s secret lies in the harmonious marriage of single malt matured in three different oak casks – American, Spanish and Japanese.

As the supply of casks became limited in the 1940’s, Suntory turned to making its own casks from Japanese mizunara oak.   The coopers discovered the porous wood was prone to leaks; blenders found that the mizunara imparted overbearing aromas and taste to the malts stored within.  But their dismay turned to delight when they discovered, after the long period of aging, the mizunara oak casks added a distinctive touch to the whisky, endowing it with sweet fragrance reminiscent of incense.  

The Suntory YAMAZAKI Whisky-Making Process
While YAMAZAKI production is very similar to the Scottish process, key differences lie in the use of selected barley strains and peating levels, along with the legendary, ultra pure waters from the outskirts of Kyoto to produce its smooth, honeyed taste.

The Suntory YAMAZAKI production process begins with the selection of the finest barley according to strict quality standards.  The barley germinates on exposure to moisture and air, producing enzymes that will later convert starch into sugars.  The grains of malt are then ground into grist and mixed with pure water from the Vale of Yamazaki.  This mixture yields a sweet liquid called wort. 

Adding the finest yeast to the wort begins the fermentation process.  Differing from Scottish whisky, Yamazaki uses wooden washbacks to ferment the wash longer, giving the whisky its creamy flavor.  The resulting wash is distilled twice in copper pots.  Only the distinctive middle cut of the second distillation is collected to become whisky.

After the distillation process is complete, the new spirits are aged in the selection of Japanese, American and Spanish oak casks, where the whisky matures to its amber color and smooth taste.

Tasting Notes
On the nose, YAMAZAKI 1984 opens with notes of cinnamon, ripe fruit, vanilla and incense.  On the palate, it offers a sweet, pleasantly sour and mature taste with a lasting depth of flavor.  The finish is lingering and slightly sweet.  Its color is a deep red amber.

History of Japanese Whisky
The history of Japanese whisky began in 1923 when Shinjiro Torii, the founder of Suntory and the father of Japanese whisky, built Japan’s first malt whisky distillery in the Vale of Yamazaki.  Located on the outskirts of Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan, this proved to be the ideal environment for whisky production. 

A good whisky is born of pure water and a climate where cool temperatures and high humidity create an ideal maturation environment.  The Vale of Yamazaki is famed for its pure waters, prized by the famous Japanese tea ceremony master Senno Rikyu.  The Yamazaki distillery, where whisky was crafted from pure malt using copper pot stills, was the first of its kind outside of Scotland. 

Today, Suntory YAMAZAKI is the most popular single malt whisky in Japan and is enjoyed by whisky connoisseurs the world over.  Suntory YAMAZAKI was ranked the world’s thirteenth bestselling single malt whisky in terms of cases sold in 2008, and is currently exported to around 25 countries, including the United States.

Enjoying Suntory YAMAZAKI
The complex aromas and flavors of Suntory YAMAZAKI can be enjoyed in a variety of ways.  The ideal method to appraise its rich, fruity aroma is to enjoy YAMAZAKI straight, either as an aperitif or after-dinner drink.  Tasting Suntory YAMAZAKI on the rocks is an excellent way to appreciate its smoothness and flavor. 

Product Name, Volume, Suggested Retail Price, Alcohol Content, Packaging:
The YAMAZAKI 1984 Single Malt Whisky, 750 ml, $550-$650, 48%, 6 bottles
Date Available: Gradual release starting October, 2009
Sales Area: Select US Markets

Category: Breaking news,Japanese whisky,New Releases Tags: 14 Comments

July 22nd, 2009

Review: Suntory Hibiki 12 yr. old

John Hansell

I first wrote about this here last week. It won’t be available in the U.S. until October 1st.

 Hibiki, 12 year old, 43%, $55
Well-rounded, solid malt backbone, and very drinkable. These are the characteristics of this impressive blend. Honeysuckle, vanilla-coated malt and fruit (pineapple upside down cake, lemon tart, plum, bramble) are the primary flavors. Ripe barley, marzipan, beeswax, and clove round out the palate. Gentle, soothing finish. Suntory can make a 12 year old blend this good with just two malt distilleries? Scotland, are you taking notice?

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Category: Japanese whisky,New Releases,Reviews Tags: , 9 Comments

July 14th, 2009

Suntory launching Hibiki 12 y/o in U.S.

John Hansell

This Japanese blended whisky was introduced to select European markets this past May. I was informed yesterday by their PR company that the whisky will be launched in the U.S. on October 1st.

I am  very excited about this. Suntory has many great whiskies in addition to their Yamazaki single malts. Hibiki is one. Hakushu, their other single malt distillery, is another. Maybe this means we might see Hakushu coming to the US in the near future? Let’s hope so.

Here’s some details on Hibiki from Suntory’s website.

I’m getting a review sample shorty and will report back with my thoughts.

Category: Japanese whisky,New Releases Tags: , 10 Comments

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