July 16th, 2010

And your benchmark disappointments over 20 years?

John Hansell

Well, if we’re going to highlight all those benchmark whiskies over the past two decades, I suppose we should take a look at the other end of the spectrum: the defining whiskies that disappointed us.

It doesn’t have to be the worst tasting whisky you ever had. It could be a trend that was started that you didn’t like, a whisky that pushed prices to absurd levels, or something else.

For example: Loch Dhu. It wasn’t the worst whisky I ever tasted (although I must say that it was not my cup of tea, given that tasted like someone dumped some bourbon and dark rum in it), but I think it was a complete waste of good whisky from the Mannochmore distillery. I’m really glad this didn’t turn into a trend. And you can still by this whisky at specialty retailers  and at auction for an absurd amount of money.

What whisky disappointed you? And why? (And let’s keep this gentlemanly, okay?)

Category: Malt Advocate Mag,Opinions 143 Comments

July 14th, 2010

The benchmark whiskies over the past 20 years?

John Hansell

It’s hard to believe, but Malt Advocate magazine turns 20 next year. We going to be doing a lot of reflecting.

Naturally, we’re going to take a look at all the great whiskies that were on the market during this time, and there were many. Some were benchmarks: they defined a new category, were classics for their style, etc.

Naturally, I have my own list of what I think some of the “benchmark” whiskies were over the past 20 years, but I would like to know your thoughts. (And I’m not going to bias you by sharing my list right now.)

What do you think was a benchmark whisky during the past two decades? And why? (This is not just limited to scotch, but rather includes all whisky categories.) Let’s get a discussion going.

Category: Malt Advocate Mag,Opinions 120 Comments

June 22nd, 2010

Malt Advocate adds new whisky reviewers

John Hansell

For the first time since its inception 19 years ago, Malt Advocate magazine will have multiple whisky reviewers. I’m proud to announce that Dave Broom and Dominic Roscrow have both agreed to join me in reviewing whiskies. These guys are great writers, accomplished book authors, excellent whisky reviewers, and also regular contributors to Malt Advocate.

As most of you know, many whiskies are not imported to the US (because of the 750 ml bottle requirements, burdensome labeling requirements, small bottling runs, and other issues). Some of these whiskies are very good, and I sometimes have trouble sourcing them. Dave and Dominic live in the UK and have easier access to them. Their focus will be on reviewing these whiskies, while I continue concentrating on those whiskies that come to the US.

The majority of Malt Advocate magazine’s circulation is in the US, so why include reviews of whiskies that aren’t? I can think of three strong reasons, outlined below:

First, this blog (WDJK) is definitely international in scope. Similar to past whisky reviews which I’ve done, we will be posting many new reviews up here first, before they are published in Malt Advocate.

Second, the world is  a much smaller place. People travel internationally. Plus, thanks to the internet, websites, blogs, Facebook, Twitter, etc., people are becoming more aware of special releases, regardless of where they live.

Finally, now that we’ve joined M. Shanken Communications, I expect our circulation to increase rapidly–and internationally.

The reviews will begin with our next issue, Volume 19.3, due out around September 1st. We still have not determined the number of reviews or the specific whiskies. That will be sorted out in the near future.

Category: Malt Advocate Mag,Scotch whisky,Writers 25 Comments

June 15th, 2010

Malt Advocate, Inc. joins M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

John Hansell

Well, this is the big news for the day (year? decade?) It’s all very positive–a perfect match.  Please let me know if you have any questions. I’ll be happy to answer them. Details below in the press release.

(That’s Marvin Shanken and me in the picture, earlier today, after I signed what seemed like a million papers. The synergisms have already begun. I’m giving him a bottle of The Glenlivet Cellar Collection 1959 vintage, and I went home with a handful of pre-Castro Cuban cigars, also from 1959. Very nice!)

—————–

Malt Advocate, Inc. joins M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

 

 John Hansell stays on as Publisher & Editor; Amy Westlake remains WhiskyFest Director

New York, June 15, 2010:  Malt Advocate, Inc. today announced that it is now a part of M. Shanken Communications, Inc.   Malt Advocate, Inc. includes Malt Advocate magazine, WhiskyFest New York, WhiskyFest Chicago, and WhiskyFest San Francisco.

M. Shanken Communications, Inc.  publishes a variety of consumer and trade publications.  They include Wine Spectator, Cigar Aficionado, Food Arts, Market Watch, and Impact.  In addition, the company hosts a number of events across the United States including the New York and New World Wine Experiences, Wine Spectator’s Grand Tours and Cigar Aficionado’s Big Smokes. 

John Hansell will remain Malt Advocate magazine’s Publisher & Editor, and Amy Westlake will continue as Director of WhiskyFest events.  Malt Advocate, Inc. operations will remain at their current office in Emmaus, PA.

“Amy and I are very proud of our efforts promoting the whisky industry, both with Malt Advocate, which will be celebrating its 20thAnniversary in 2011, and the 25 WhiskyFest events we have hosted over the past 12 years,” notes John Hansell.

“Our activities dovetail perfectly with those of M. Shanken Communications, Inc. from a publication and events standpoint.  There are definite synergies that will be achieved between the two companies.  The M. Shanken Group will take Malt Advocate magazine and our WhiskyFest events to levels that we could not have achieved on our own.  We are very excited about our future together.”

“John and Amy are pioneers in this industry and highly regarded,” commented Marvin R. Shanken, CEO of M. Shanken Communications, Inc.   “We are proud to have them on board with us.  Their creations—Malt Advocate and WhiskyFest—are benchmarks.”

For additional information, contact Amy Westlake (610. 967.1083 or Amy@maltadvocate.com).

Category: Breaking news,Malt Advocate Mag,Media,WhiskyFest Tags: 72 Comments

May 5th, 2010

Thinking Small

John Hansell

Here’s a sneak peak of my editorial in the next issue of Malt Advocate magazine, which will be released June 1st. There’s an incredible craft distilling movement taking place right now, which is very exciting. We think it’s great, and we are committed to promoting their efforts. My editorial explains some of the steps we are taking.

Thinking Small

How many distilleries do you think are making whiskey in the U.S.? If you’re guessing about a dozen or so, you would be correct—if you only counted the well-established bourbon distilleries, located primarily in Kentucky.

Actually, the last time I checked, there are close to 50 distilleries making whiskey here. The vast majority of them didn’t even exist a decade ago.

Yes, there is a whisky renaissance going on right now—not just here in the U.S., but around the globe. Call it what you want—craft distilling, microdistilling, artisan distilling—it all means the same thing: relatively small distilleries that are beginning to release hand-crafted, young (almost entirely less than 10 years old), creative whiskeys.

This new craft distilling movement reminds me so much of the craft brewing movement over the past few decades. At one time, we had only a handful of large breweries, making very similar beers (mostly lightly-flavored pilsners). The smaller craft brewers took the styles and traditions from other brewing nations and put their own spin on them. They made (and still are making) beers that transcended styles, limited only by the imagination of the brewer.

The same thing is happening right now in craft distilling. While it’s true that some distillers, like Anchor, are taking a very traditional approach to the whiskeys they make, many are experimenting with new distillation techniques, different types of grain, and a vast array of barrels for aging. The cool thing is that most of these whiskeys are just coming to market—and they will continue to do so for the years and decades to come.

Sure, there have been (and will continue to be) inferior products put on the market, just as there were twenty years ago with craft brewing. Eventually, the craft distilling movement will mature. The bad apples will be weeded out, and the highest quality whiskeys will continue to thrive and grow—some eventually competing with the established bourbon distilleries—similar to the way Boston Beer, Sierra Nevada, and other brewers are doing now within the beer industry.

I think we have done a decent job over the years writing about this burgeoning craft distilling movement in Malt Advocate, but it’s not enough. So, beginning with this issue, we have established two new sections.

First, we now have a craft distilling column that will feature different writers in each issue. Our inaugural installment is written by Dave Pickerell, former master distiller at Maker’s Mark, who is now consulting to the craft distilling industry. It’s a great overview, and discusses topics like terroir (usually not considered in traditional bourbon distilleries, because they are all relatively close to each other).

The second enhancement to Malt Advocate is a new listing of all the craft distillers making whiskey, which will appear in every issue. Now you can keep track of who they are and where they are. This is important because, unlike the big distillers, this new breed of craft distillers are located across the U.S. If your travels take you near one, you might want to stop in and take a tour.

Sometimes, to think big, you have to think small, and that’s exactly what we’re doing. The craft distilling movement is very exciting, we’re embracing it, and we’re giving you a front row seat to the show.

Category: American whiskey,Malt Advocate Mag,Microdistilleries 38 Comments

March 2nd, 2010

Once again, you’re the subject of my editorial

John Hansell

For those of you who still aren’t subscribers to Malt Advocate magazine (hint!), I thought I would post my editorial from the new issue that just mailed. Why? Because the topic is about you!

Have a look:

Are you addicted to whisky?

Okay, maybe “addicted” might be too strong. But I don’t think “obsession” is.

Over the holidays, I asked my blog readers on www.whatdoesjohnknow.com what their New Year’s resolutions were. Here are a few of many; note that they share a common theme:

“My resolution is to regain my sanity and not spend so much on whisky…”

 “Measure my drams more carefully to control portion size.”

“I spent too much on whisky this year. So much so, that my wife gave me some sideways glances. Not good.”

“My resolution will be to stop buying impulsively.”

“More willpower and less buying”

Control portion size? Regain your sanity? More willpower? Your wife is giving you sideways glances? What’s going on here?  (And why do I feel like those exact words came out of my mouth somewhere along the way?)

Here’s what I think this all boils down to. I think it’s a huge compliment to whisky. Whisky (and whiskey) is the finest, most complex, most individualistic, most diverse spirit in the world. Once someone truly discovers it, it’s hard to resist its magical allure.

If anyone understands, I do. One day, many years ago, a good friend turned me on to scotch, with help from a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label. The next day I read an article in Business Week magazine about single malt scotch. I immediately went to my local retailer and bought every bottle they had.  All three of them.

For years to follow, I wanted to try every whisky I could get my hands on. My life revolved around trips to Scotland, whisky bars, whisky retailers…and reading everything about whisky I could.

Just look at me now: obsession to the max! I publish a whisky magazine, host whisky festivals, conduct whisky tastings and consult to the whisky industry. I am embarrassed to say how many bottles of whisky I have. (Let’s just say it takes up an entire room in my house. A large room.)

Addiction? No. Obsession? Definitely. Worth it? Absolutely!

Hey, did you hear about the new Ardbeg whisky coming out? I hear that the peat smoke levels are through the roof! I have to get me a bottle of that…

See, when you comment on WDJK, you never know where your quotes will show up. Thank you for the inspiration!

Category: Malt Advocate Mag,Opinions 19 Comments

February 13th, 2010

One thing you can do while I’m away for a few days.

John Hansell

For those of you on Facebook, become a fan of Malt Advocate magazine. You can find the link here.

We’re just getting going, but we picked up 1,000 fans just in the past week. When I get back, I’ll be very active there too. Plus, you can post up your own thoughts on whatever (whisky related) topics you want and get a conversation going.

Category: Administrative,Malt Advocate Mag,Opinions No Comments

February 11th, 2010

Malt Advocate Magazine’s “Top Ten New Whiskies” for 2009

John Hansell

Top Ten New Whiskies of the Year (listed alphabetically)

You will not be happy with the prices of some of these whiskies, but here’s our ten best new whiskies released in 2009 (keeping in mind that whiskies must have been for sale in the U.S. in the 2009 calendar year to be eligible).

The selection process for this list is based primarily on the whisky’s rating. All ten whiskies rated 95 or higher in Malt Advocate  magazine.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85
Powerful, muscular, well-textured, and invigorating. Even within the realm of Ardbeg, this one stands out. There are many relatively young whiskies with no age statement on the market. This is a benchmark. Quite stunning!

Brora 30 year old (2009 Release), 53.2%, $400
This whisky shows all the good aspects of a very mature whisky (depth, complexity) without all the bad ones (excessive oak, one-dimensional). It’s very clean and polished. One of the best releases from this shuttered distillery.

Dalmore 50 year old, $1,500/100ml
Incredibly viscous and chewy, and thick on the tongue. Very complex too, with that classic Dalmore marmalade note as its foundation. The flavors evolve like waves lapping on a beach. It is a whisky you can’t drink slowly enough.

Gold Bowmore, 1964 Vintage, 42.4% $6,250
Surprisingly lively for its age. I like this whisky better than White Bowmore but feels that it falls short of Black Bowmore, because it’s a bit softer and less vibrant on the palate. (But, for most of you with limited means, I can understand if you don’t really care.)

Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve, 46% (2009 vintage), $250
I love the pot still character and the lushness that some of the port-wood aging has imparted. If anything,  this 2009 vintage is even richer and lusher than the previous 2007 vintage I reviewed. Another classic Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve.

Laphroaig 25 year old, 51.2%, $500
I love the way the flavors of this whisky evolve on the palate. I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky. A delicious, well-balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig.

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve (Bottle B1986), 23 year old, 47.8%, $220
My review of this whiskey a few years back indicated this whiskey was too woody and past it’s prime to be a stellar whiskey. This one is much better. (Yes, whiskey bottlings do change over time.) There’s great balance and the oak is in check.

Parkers Heritage Selection Golden Anniversary, 50%, $150
This is a fabulous whiskey: seamless, incredibly complex, with an impeccable marriage of youth and maturity. It’s also very even-keeled throughout. A classic bourbon that’s very complex and yet very drinkable.

Rittenhouse Rye 25 year old (Barrel #1), 50%, $190
Not as vibrant as the 21 year old Rittenhouse Rye released a few years back, but it’s more sophisticated, which more than makes up for it. I can’t speak for the other barrels in this lot, but I think this one is a great example of what a 20-plus year old rye whisky should taste like.

William Larue Weller (2009 release), 67.4%, $65
This whiskey has improved greatly over the past two years. (I thought that the 2007 release was almost too easy-going, as some wheated bourbon can be.) A little more oak spice has added balance, complexity and depth. Very clean on the palate too. Excellent!

Category: Awards,Bourbon,Irish whiskey,Malt Advocate Mag,New Releases,Reviews,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky Tags: , , , , , , , , , 44 Comments

February 11th, 2010

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Lifetime Achievement Awards”: John Ramsay and Robert Hicks

John Hansell

This year, we honor two master blenders who have greatly impacted the Scotch whisky industry.

John Ramsay

John Ramsay retired in 2009 after 43 years in the whisky industry. He started as a chemist in 1966, and over the years he’s had the combined roles of both master blender and chemist (the last eighteen years being with Edrington).

By the time he retired, he was responsible for both the laboratory and sample rooms (sensory analysis), overseeing employees responsible for the sensory examination of casks, new distillate, and mature whiskies. He’s been on the judging panel for various spirits competitions, and is also a “Keeper of the Quaich.”

John was the master blender for well-known blends like Cutty Sark and The Famous Grouse, and was also one of the “malt masters” of Highland Park and The Macallan. But perhaps his most significant achievement was the selection and creation of The Glenrothes since its release as a single malt in 1994. His signature is proudly stamped on every bottle of it since 2004, when he was involved in the creation of their “vintage” concept, which continues today.

Well done, John.

Robert Hicks

Robert Hicks started his career in whisky back in 1964. Before retiring from Allied Distillers in 2005 as master blender, he was responsible for the quality and flavor of many well-known whisky brands, including Ballantine’s, Teacher’s Highland Cream, and Laphroaig.

Since 2005, he has been a consultant master blender for Beam Global Spirits and Wines, working on Teacher’s Highland Cream, Laphroaig, and Ardmore whiskies.

His expertise covers all parts of the whisky industry, from distilling and maturation to blending, bottling, and marketing. Because of his efforts he has received numerous awards, and so have his whiskies. His most recent effort, and the one he’s most proud of, is the development of Laphroaig Quarter Cask.

As the scotch brand director for Beam Global put it: “To produce this exciting and unique Laphroaig variant is a tribute to the skills of Robert Hicks, who has overseen every step of this unrivaled process.”

We couldn’t agree more.

Category: Awards,Malt Advocate Mag Tags: , , , , , , , , , 3 Comments

February 10th, 2010

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Distillery of the Year”: Cooley

John Hansell

There was a time when there were only two distilleries in Ireland; they were, for a while, owned by the same company. Then this small distillery opens up, staunchly independent, and starts doing things unheard of in Ireland. Instead of making traditional Irish whiskey (triple-distilled, non-smoky, and with a pot still whiskey component), they started making very scotch-like whiskey (double distilled, single malt, and sometimes very smoky).

Let’s face it. That took a lot of guts.

Nearly twenty years later, they’re still making Irish whiskey, and they’re still doing it their way. You can purchase delicious grain whiskey (Greenore), smoky single malt whiskey (Connemara), non-smoky whiskey (Tyrconnell), and blended whiskey (Kilbeggan). In fact, you can now also purchase unaged spirit from their newly resurrected sister distillery, Kilbeggan. (Not to be confused with the blend of the same name.)

All this is great. But the most compelling justification for selecting Cooley for this award isn’t just the variety of the whiskeys they make. It’s the quality. They are now putting out the best whiskey they have ever produced. The three different Tyrconnell 10 year old “finished” whiskeys (finished in port, madeira, and sherry casks), are excellent examples. Some of the Connemara releases have rivaled those from the West Coast of Scotland.

In an era where hundreds of small distilleries are starting up across the globe, Cooley can be an inspiration to them all.

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcements: “Lifetime Achievement Awards”  and “Top Ten New Whiskies for 2009.”

Category: Awards,Irish whiskey,Malt Advocate Mag Tags: 27 Comments

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