August 4th, 2010

Review: two whiskey barrel aged rye beers

John Hansell

The reason why I initially named the magazine “Malt Advocate” is because the magazine equally covered beer and whisky. (Malt being the common thread.) I was a beer writer before I wrote about whisky.

I still have been reviewing beer, freelance,  for America’s longest running beer magazine, All About Beer. (A great magazine, by the way, if you are a beer enthusiast.)

I’ve now decided to focus my beer reviewing efforts back here, under the Malt Advocate umbrella. So, to kick things off,  I thought I would write about these two beers I recently received. Both have a whiskey connection: the are beers made with rye and aged in whiskey barrels. Their oak aging is evident but not excessive. They are best enjoyed at cellar temperature. And as you can see from my rating, I like both of them.

HE’BREW “R.I.P.A on Rye”(beer on left) is a rye double IPA aged in rye whiskey barrels.  (Six year old Sazerac Rye barrel, in case you were going to ask.) It checks in at 10% ABV. A sipping beer for sure. The bitter hop notes mask some of the rye spice, but there’s still plenty of rye spice to go around. I can really taste the spicy and citrus rye notes in the beer, along with the caramel, vanilla,  apricot, dark chocolate, espresso bean, and gritty, dry, rye barrel notes emerging and concentrating on the finish. Very bold and dynamic. ($12)

Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

RY(e)AN ALE is beer produced by Smuttynose brewery for Julio’s Liquors. It’s simply described as a “rye ale aged in bourbon barrels.” (Buffalo Trace and Four Roses, for the record.) It doesn’t have the hoppy bitterness like the HE’BREW beer (it’s smoother too!), but it sure is full-bodied  (as it should be, if it wants to stand up to the wood) and fairly strong, logging in at 7.7% ABV. I can smell and taste the charred oak influence. It’s rich, sweet and malty, with chewy caramel, molasses, malted milk balls, plum skin, black cherry, licorice and pleasant orchard fruit for balance. Liquid Dessert! ($9)

Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: Beer,Bourbon,Rye whiskey Tags: 32 Comments

July 13th, 2010

Review: WhistlePig Straight Rye Whiskey, 10 year old

John Hansell

WhistlePig Straight Rye Whiskey, 10 year old, 50%, $70
Imported from Canada (which suggests that maybe this whiskey was originally intended to be the “flavoring” component of a Canadian whiskey?) and bottled in Vermont. This is 100% rye whiskey (much higher than other traditional straight rye whiskeys). Indeed, this whiskey bleeds spices (especially brisk mint, vibrant clove, and teasing nutmeg), but there’s a rich, sweet foundation to balance it all (honeyed vanilla, caramel, butterscotch, and nutty toffee), along with candied citrus and charcoal. Bold, spicy, nutty toffee, butterscotch finish. Very distinctive.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Rye whiskey Tags: 23 Comments

July 9th, 2010

Review: Redemption Rye

John Hansell

This came out of nowhere, and I really enjoy it. It’s pretty good stuff for 2 years old. Very vibrant, and doesn’t taste immature like other really young whiskeys often do.

Right now it’s only available in CA, NY, and NJ, but is expanding shortly to CT, MA and GA.

Oh, and I am also told that they will be bottling a very limited amount of barrel-proof rye too in the near future. That should be exciting to taste.

Redemption Rye (Batch No. 2), 46%, $26
The back label of this whiskey describes it as “feisty,” and feisty it is! Brandishing 95% rye (another flavoring rye whiskey for Canadian whisky that was diverted?), bottled at 46% and at a relatively young age (around two years old), this whiskey lets you know you are alive. It’s very spicy, with crisp evergreen, warming cinnamon, clove, rooty licorice, dark chocolate, and suggestions of gin botanicals. Spicy, vibrant finish. I’m having fun drinking this au naturel, but this would also zing in a cocktail, the same way smoky Islay whiskies make their presence in a blended scotch.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 84

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Rye whiskey Tags: 11 Comments

July 6th, 2010

Here’s what I drank on the 4th of July

John Hansell

This was an easy one. These three whiskeys showed up on Friday, just in time. How could I not try them over the weekend? (Click on the photo for an enlarged image.)

Yes, that’s the new Maker’s Mark “46″ Bourbon, the new Four Roses “Limited Edition” Small Batch Bourbon, and the new WhistlePig Straight Rye (100%rye) whiskey.

All are very good whiskeys, hovering around the 90 rating. I already reviewed the Maker’s here. You’ll see the new Four Roses and WhistlePig reviews here very soon.

Oh, in case you were wondering, I also enjoyed other fine libations, including Lost Abbey “Carnevale” and Port Brewing “Summer Pale Ale” (both on tap), along with a Palmer “Alter Ego” 2000 Bordeaux.

Category: American whiskey,Bourbon,Rye whiskey,Special events Tags: , , 18 Comments

June 28th, 2010

First public tasting and buying opportunity for George Washington Rye Whiskey at Mount Vernon Distillery

John Hansell

Who was the master distiller behind the creation of this whiskey? None other than Dave Pickerell, past Distillery Manager at Maker’s Mark. (He’s now involved with WhistlePig Rye Whiskey, among other activities.) I’m also getting a review sample of the whiskey, so I’ll let you know my thoughts after I taste it.

Here are some other tidbits of information that Frank Coleman of the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS) provided me. (Thanks Frank!)

*Prince Andrew and Gov. Bob McDonnell (then-AG) cut the ribbon on the distillery in the Fall of 06.

*DISCUS and WSWA funded the $2.1 million project in 2001.

*Ground was broken in Fall, 2001–five years of archaeology and then construction followed.

*The Distillery and its second floor museum about the history of distilling in America is The Gateway to the American Whiskey Trail www.Americanwhiskeytrail.com.

*DISCUS got a law passed in to allow the GW Distillery to be a special ABC store.

*In February, 2010 DISCUS passed a law to permit ABC stores to allow tastings of spirits–law is effective July 1. Hence, this is also the first public liquor store tasting since Prohibition.

*Demonstration distilling was done several times since 2002 on the lawn on an exact replica of the 18th cent Smithsonian Pot Still built by Vendome Copper of Louisville.

*Products from those events, including GW Rye and Martha’s Rum were only sold at private auctions.

*The first two bottles of the first demonstation GW Rye  sold to publisher Marvin Shanken for $100k–a record for an American whiskey. Bottle #1 is in the Distillery museum; bottle #2 is on display at Shanken Communications.

*A unique vatted American whiskey, aged and blended on the grounds at Mount Vernon, and made from a dozen great American whiskeys including Jack Daniels, Maker’s Maker, etc has been on sale in mini-bottle gift sets. The public will also be able to taste and purchase those sets on July 1.

Official Press Release:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:                    CONTACT:    Frank Coleman, Distilled Spirits Council (202) 682-8840

June 25, 2010                                                                      Melissa Wood, Mount Vernon, (703) 799-5203

BUY GEORGE!: First Public Opportunity to Buy and Taste

George Washington Rye Whiskey at the Mount Vernon Distillery

 

MOUNT VERNON, VA. — On July 1, for the first time since the George Washington’s distillery burned to the ground in 1814, the public will be able buy Rye Whiskey made at the founding father’s distillery.  And, thanks to a new law in Virginia, they can taste it BEFORE they buy it at this special public tasting event.

The extremely limited edition whiskey (550 bottles) was produced in the reconstructed distillery in 2009 according to the General’s own recipe discovered by historians in the mansion’s extensive records. (Bottle shot at left, courtesy of Russ Flynt.)

Starting at noon, the public will be able to sample small amounts before purchasing one of the unique 375 ml bottles for $85. The proceeds will benefit Mount Vernon’s education programs.

What:             First public sale and tasting of the new George Washington Rye Whiskey produced at George Washington’s Distillery using the Founding Father’s own historic recipe

When:            July 1, 2010

                        11:30 a.m.  Media set-up

                        11:45 a.m.  Inaugural tasting with public officials followed by media tastings

                        12:00 p.m. – 1 p.m. Public tasting event (while supplies last)

                        12:30 p.m.  Unveiling of local artist’s painting in distillery’s upstairs museum   

 

Where:           George Washington’s Distillery

                             5514 Mount Vernon Memorial Highway (SR 235)

                            3 miles south of Mount Vernon Estate & Gardens main entrance.

Who:              Jim Rees, President, Historic Mount Vernon,  Public Officials

Category: American whiskey,Distillery news,Microdistilleries,New Releases,Rye whiskey,Special events,Whisky tasting Tags: , 12 Comments

May 12th, 2010

Review: Grand Traverse “Ole George” Rye Whiskey

John Hansell

Looking for a respectable, young, rye whiskey from one of the new Artisan distillers? Here’s one that’s just out. Two years old, and I can enjoy it neat! Only three casks (for now). They’ll have another dozen next year. And only available at the distillery. But maybe you had the chance to taste it at WhiskyFest Chicago a couple weeks ago?

Grand Traverse “Ole George”, 46.5%, $48
Sweet (caramel, butterscotch), botanical, liqueur-ish, with honeyed fruit and a peppering of spice throughout (cinnamon, pine needles, anise). Very clean too! But what impresses me most is its maturity for its age. It’s pretty mellow for a two year old 100% straight rye whiskey.

Advance Malt Advocate magazine rating: 80

Category: American whiskey,Microdistilleries,New Releases,Rye whiskey Tags: 3 Comments

February 11th, 2010

Malt Advocate Magazine’s “Top Ten New Whiskies” for 2009

John Hansell

Top Ten New Whiskies of the Year (listed alphabetically)

You will not be happy with the prices of some of these whiskies, but here’s our ten best new whiskies released in 2009 (keeping in mind that whiskies must have been for sale in the U.S. in the 2009 calendar year to be eligible).

The selection process for this list is based primarily on the whisky’s rating. All ten whiskies rated 95 or higher in Malt Advocate  magazine.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85
Powerful, muscular, well-textured, and invigorating. Even within the realm of Ardbeg, this one stands out. There are many relatively young whiskies with no age statement on the market. This is a benchmark. Quite stunning!

Brora 30 year old (2009 Release), 53.2%, $400
This whisky shows all the good aspects of a very mature whisky (depth, complexity) without all the bad ones (excessive oak, one-dimensional). It’s very clean and polished. One of the best releases from this shuttered distillery.

Dalmore 50 year old, $1,500/100ml
Incredibly viscous and chewy, and thick on the tongue. Very complex too, with that classic Dalmore marmalade note as its foundation. The flavors evolve like waves lapping on a beach. It is a whisky you can’t drink slowly enough.

Gold Bowmore, 1964 Vintage, 42.4% $6,250
Surprisingly lively for its age. I like this whisky better than White Bowmore but feels that it falls short of Black Bowmore, because it’s a bit softer and less vibrant on the palate. (But, for most of you with limited means, I can understand if you don’t really care.)

Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve, 46% (2009 vintage), $250
I love the pot still character and the lushness that some of the port-wood aging has imparted. If anything,  this 2009 vintage is even richer and lusher than the previous 2007 vintage I reviewed. Another classic Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve.

Laphroaig 25 year old, 51.2%, $500
I love the way the flavors of this whisky evolve on the palate. I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky. A delicious, well-balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig.

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve (Bottle B1986), 23 year old, 47.8%, $220
My review of this whiskey a few years back indicated this whiskey was too woody and past it’s prime to be a stellar whiskey. This one is much better. (Yes, whiskey bottlings do change over time.) There’s great balance and the oak is in check.

Parkers Heritage Selection Golden Anniversary, 50%, $150
This is a fabulous whiskey: seamless, incredibly complex, with an impeccable marriage of youth and maturity. It’s also very even-keeled throughout. A classic bourbon that’s very complex and yet very drinkable.

Rittenhouse Rye 25 year old (Barrel #1), 50%, $190
Not as vibrant as the 21 year old Rittenhouse Rye released a few years back, but it’s more sophisticated, which more than makes up for it. I can’t speak for the other barrels in this lot, but I think this one is a great example of what a 20-plus year old rye whisky should taste like.

William Larue Weller (2009 release), 67.4%, $65
This whiskey has improved greatly over the past two years. (I thought that the 2007 release was almost too easy-going, as some wheated bourbon can be.) A little more oak spice has added balance, complexity and depth. Very clean on the palate too. Excellent!

Category: Awards,Bourbon,Irish whiskey,Malt Advocate Mag,New Releases,Reviews,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky Tags: , , , , , , , , , 44 Comments

February 9th, 2010

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Industry Leader of the Year”: Mark Brown (Buffalo Trace Distillery)

John Hansell

Industry Leader of the Year

Mark Brown, President and CEO of Buffalo Trace Distillery

Mark is a visionary, incredibly driven, a clever businessman, and most importantly, passionate about whiskey. Like many other whiskey CEOs, he wants to make the perfect whiskey. But I have never seen anyone work this hard at it.

Buffalo Trace is conducting thousands of different experiments (including some at their experimental micro-distillery), many of them groundbreaking. More importantly, whiskey enthusiasts get to taste them on an ongoing basis, through the highly anticipated “Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection” releases. Their stable of regular whiskeys is also astonishing. I can think of at least twenty-five different straight bourbon and rye whiskeys produced by Buffalo Trace, from the flagship Buffalo Trace bourbon to the annual Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, which are consistently among the finest American whiskeys being produced.

There are other amazing whiskeys, and distilleries, under the Buffalo Trace umbrella; all of the wonderful Van Winkle whiskeys, for example. In 2009, Buffalo Trace purchased the Tom Moore distillery, where Barton and Ridgemont Reserve 1792 are produced. Later in the year, they also acquired the Old Taylor brand.

Experiments, acquisitions, and exciting new releases of the highest quality and at reasonable prices: what more could a whiskey-lover ask for? Thank you, Mark. Don’t stop! (Like you ever would…)

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Distillery of the Year.

Category: Awards,Bourbon,Malt Advocate Mag,Rye whiskey Tags: , 36 Comments

January 7th, 2010

Guest Blogger: Dave Pickerell, former Master Distiller of Maker’s Mark bourbon

John Hansell

We are honored to have Dave Pickerell as our guest blogger for January. Dave was the Master Distiller at Maker’s Mark for many years, and he really knows his stuff!

I asked him to give his thoughts on what’s going on with the micro-distilling movement, and here’s what he has to say. Thanks Dave!

He has a few questions for you at the end of his post. Post up your thoughts.

First off, I appreciate having the opportunity to “stand in” for John.  His knowledge, depth of insight and understanding and passion for the industry are evident in everything he does.  It is truly an honor to be here.  Thanks, John.

Since I left Maker’s Mark in April 2008, two things have captured most of my attention:  micro-distilling and rye whiskey.  I have spent untold hours probing the depths of both areas.  In fact, Oak View Consulting, LLC. came to life as a result of all that I have discovered here.  When people ask me just what I am trying to accomplish, I tell them that I am trying to “Put feet on dreams”.  However, with a bit of introspection that seems to come with each New Year, I now realize that I am not just trying to put feet on other people’s dreams … they are my dreams, too.

I have met with literally dozens of people who were interested in starting up some sort of distillery or other.  All of them have a passion, but some realize that they do not have enough know-how to get moving, while others are concerned that they may not have enough capital to actually get things off the ground.  It is my observation that many folks that want to start up a new distillery dream of making some sort of whiskey.  However, start-up and maturation costs run in the face of the business plan, and they end up making vodka or maybe gin instead.

Part of my dream is seeing lots of new expressions of whiskey … good ones … from all over America… hit the market… representing a new sort of terroir, where true geographical differences in the U.S. can not only be expressed but also clearly differentiated.  I believe that the effects of locality on grain, water, and climate can be best expressed in a micro-distillery.  Especially in the US, the big whiskey guys pretty much all express the same terroir … because they are located within a stone’s throw of each other and because they pretty much are so big that they are forced to buy commodity grain.  Don’t get me wrong, there are a lot of very good whiskies being produced in the US … it’s just that locality has never been much of an issue.

It occurred to me that two things need to happen.  First, it is essential that the cost of equipment come down to a more affordable price.  Second, it would be good to have a competent one-stop source of information and help to get things up and running. Hopefully, I can in some way help with both of these issues.  I have been working with Vendome Copper and Brass Works on a holistic approach to micro-distilling … and thanks to a great deal of effort on their part, they have already had tremendous results in reducing the capital costs for starting a micro-distillery.  Additionally, I hope that any expertise that I might have gained through my years in the industry might also be helpful to some in getting things up and running.

Finally, the rye … with its bold and delicious character… There has been a lot of talk about the resurgence of Rye Whiskey … and to traditional cocktails (like the Sazerac, Old Fashioned, and Manhattan) that are absolutely delicious with a good measure of rye… no need to cover all that ground again.  Anyone who has had occasion to chat with me over the last year knows that I believe it is time to advance this category with a bold new expression or two … that’s my personal dream.

What do you think about the future of micro-distilling  (whether here in the U.S. or abroad)? And what do you think about my theories on terroir and its influence on a given whiskey’s flavor profile? And do you think rye will be the new hot whiskey of choice, or will it be something else?

Category: Guest Blogger,Microdistilleries,Rye whiskey 33 Comments

December 14th, 2009

Your predictions for 2010?

John Hansell

Okay everyone, get out your crystal ball. What do you see happening to the whisky (and whiskey) industry in 2010? I’ll start the discussion by making a couple of predictions myself.

 
More experimental American whiskeys
The American whiskey industry was very slow getting on the experimenting bandwagon (relative to Scotch, Japanese, and Irish whiskey). But with the likes of Woodford Reserve’s Master’s Collection whiskeys, High West’s “Bourye“, The Party Sources “Wheat on Rye” Experimental Whiskey (in association with Buffalo Trace Distillery), and the blossoming small, artisanal distilleries, I think (or at least I hope) 2010 will see more different kinds of experimental bourbons and other American whiskeys on the market than ever before.

More Scotch whiskies without age statements
Across the pond in Scotland, I think more and more distilleries will continue abandoning age statements. It gives them more flexibility in what goes in the bottle. It will also help them blend in younger whiskey coming on the market with existing stocks of older whisky and still command a fair price for it.

Now it’s your turn. Tell us what you think will happen in 2010. We can come back to this one year from now and see how well we did.

Category: Bourbon,Opinions,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky Tags: , , , 32 Comments

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