March 5th, 2010

Review: Ardbeg Rollercoaster

John Hansell

I first mentioned this new release here back on February 5th, and if you follow the thread you can read about all the details. Basically it’s a marriage of ten different casks from ten different years (1997-2006).

I tasted the whisky first on Super Bowl Sunday, and offered my preliminary thoughts here (@12). My opinion has not changed. My formal review follows.

89 Ardbeg “Rollercoaster,” 57.3%, $ 85.00
Deep gold color. Very bold aroma of toffee, dark chocolate, diesel fuel-soaked soil, smoldering campfire, coal tar, clove, leather, fig, and dark berried fruit. More of the same on the palate, with seaweed, smoked haddock and cough drops emerging towards the finish. This whisky is very dynamic and exciting to drink. My only criticism: it comes across a little green on the finish, which keeps me from scoring it in the 90s. Still, it’s pretty impressive considering how young some of the whiskies are. And if you like your Islay whiskies young and brooding, then this one’s for you.

Category: New Releases, Reviews, Scotch whisky Tags: 34 Comments

February 11th, 2010

Malt Advocate Magazine’s “Top Ten New Whiskies” for 2009

John Hansell

Top Ten New Whiskies of the Year (listed alphabetically)

You will not be happy with the prices of some of these whiskies, but here’s our ten best new whiskies released in 2009 (keeping in mind that whiskies must have been for sale in the U.S. in the 2009 calendar year to be eligible).

The selection process for this list is based primarily on the whisky’s rating. All ten whiskies rated 95 or higher in Malt Advocate  magazine.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85
Powerful, muscular, well-textured, and invigorating. Even within the realm of Ardbeg, this one stands out. There are many relatively young whiskies with no age statement on the market. This is a benchmark. Quite stunning!

Brora 30 year old (2009 Release), 53.2%, $400
This whisky shows all the good aspects of a very mature whisky (depth, complexity) without all the bad ones (excessive oak, one-dimensional). It’s very clean and polished. One of the best releases from this shuttered distillery.

Dalmore 50 year old, $1,500/100ml
Incredibly viscous and chewy, and thick on the tongue. Very complex too, with that classic Dalmore marmalade note as its foundation. The flavors evolve like waves lapping on a beach. It is a whisky you can’t drink slowly enough.

Gold Bowmore, 1964 Vintage, 42.4% $6,250
Surprisingly lively for its age. I like this whisky better than White Bowmore but feels that it falls short of Black Bowmore, because it’s a bit softer and less vibrant on the palate. (But, for most of you with limited means, I can understand if you don’t really care.)

Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve, 46% (2009 vintage), $250
I love the pot still character and the lushness that some of the port-wood aging has imparted. If anything,  this 2009 vintage is even richer and lusher than the previous 2007 vintage I reviewed. Another classic Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve.

Laphroaig 25 year old, 51.2%, $500
I love the way the flavors of this whisky evolve on the palate. I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky. A delicious, well-balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig.

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve (Bottle B1986), 23 year old, 47.8%, $220
My review of this whiskey a few years back indicated this whiskey was too woody and past it’s prime to be a stellar whiskey. This one is much better. (Yes, whiskey bottlings do change over time.) There’s great balance and the oak is in check.

Parkers Heritage Selection Golden Anniversary, 50%, $150
This is a fabulous whiskey: seamless, incredibly complex, with an impeccable marriage of youth and maturity. It’s also very even-keeled throughout. A classic bourbon that’s very complex and yet very drinkable.

Rittenhouse Rye 25 year old (Barrel #1), 50%, $190
Not as vibrant as the 21 year old Rittenhouse Rye released a few years back, but it’s more sophisticated, which more than makes up for it. I can’t speak for the other barrels in this lot, but I think this one is a great example of what a 20-plus year old rye whisky should taste like.

William Larue Weller (2009 release), 67.4%, $65
This whiskey has improved greatly over the past two years. (I thought that the 2007 release was almost too easy-going, as some wheated bourbon can be.) A little more oak spice has added balance, complexity and depth. Very clean on the palate too. Excellent!

Category: Awards, Bourbon, Irish whiskey, Malt Advocate Mag, New Releases, Reviews, Rye whiskey, Scotch whisky Tags: , , , , , , , , , 44 Comments

February 7th, 2010

The Super Bowl is going to be quite a (Ardbeg) Rollercoaster ride

John Hansell

This showed up at our office  yesterday morning. I didn’t want to steal the thunder Ardbeg Corryvreckan winning our “Whisky of the Year” honors here this morning, so I held off posting anything about Rollercoaster until after the awards announcement.

I have a bottle, and the booklet that came along with it. If you follow the thread on my first Rollercoaster post, you can find all the details on this bottling. But if you have any other questions, I will try to answer them.

And yes, I hope to open up this baby sometime this evening during the Super Bowl game. If I do, I don’t think it will matter which team wins.

Update: I offer my preliminary thoughts on Rollercoaster in comment #12 below.

Category: New Releases, Scotch whisky Tags: 43 Comments

February 7th, 2010

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Scotch Whisky: Single Malt of the Year”: Ardbeg Corryvreckan

John Hansell

Scotch Whisky: Single Malt of the Year

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85

Dr. Bill Lumsden is a brilliant innovator, and he’s the creative mind behind the new Glenmorangie and Ardbeg releases. This new Ardbeg Corryvreckan replaces Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist. (Bill, how about a whisky name that most of us can actually pronounce?)

As you can imagine, the “short list” for this award category was actually quite long, because there are so many great single malts on the market. One of deciding factors for picking “Corry” is that it is part of the new trend in malt whisky (younger whiskies, not chill-filtered, with interesting names instead of age statements). And while there are many whiskies that fit this category (and will be many more over the next several years), Corry is an example of the proper way to do it. It is a relatively young, invigorating, complex, and meticulously cared for whisky.

It’s also powerful, muscular, and well-textured. (I think part of this texturing is that some of the whisky was aged in French oak casks, rather than American or Spanish oak.) Even within the realm of Ardbeg, Corry stands out. The more aggressive notes of coal tar, damp kiln, anise, and smoked seaweed are supported by an array of fruit (black raspberry, black cherry, plum), dark chocolate, espresso, molasses, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and warming cinnamon on the finish. Quite stunning!

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Pioneer of the Year.

Category: Awards, Malt Advocate Mag, Reviews, Scotch whisky Tags: 37 Comments

February 5th, 2010

A new Ardbeg, called “Rollercoaster”?

John Hansell

A little bird told me this is coming out. Called Rollercoaster. Bottled at 57.3%. It’s already up on Twitter. Twitterland says it contains whiskies no older than 1997. I emailed the powers that be for confirmation, but no response yet.

Stay tuned…

Category: Breaking news, New Releases, Scotch whisky Tags: 39 Comments

January 25th, 2010

The next two days in New York: cool stuff. And when I return, more cool stuff.

John Hansell

There are things I like in my job, and there are things I don’t. The next two days are the former.

During the next two days, I’m having lunch with the distillery manager of Glen Grant, which is finally being imported to the U.S. I’ve already tasted their new whiskies, but it will be nice to meet with him. I am also meeting with the people in charge of Glenrothes, Glen Grant, Suntory Yamazaki, Cutty Sark, Tullamore Dew, Wild Turkey, and more here in the U.S.

I’m also meeting with Dr. Bill Lumsden, the genius behind Glenmorangie and Ardbeg. And I’ll be having lunch with the brand managers for The Macallan and Highland Park.

And in between all that, I am planning on enjoying a cigar with a very well known cigar enthusiast.

Then, on Wednesday, I a plan on tasting more “not yet released, and previously released” Maker’s Mark bourbons with Kevin Smith, Maker’s Mark’s Distillery Manager.

Stay tuned…

Category: Special events Tags: , , , , , , , 16 Comments

January 12th, 2010

Ardbeg Supernova: a regular item or just a one-time release?

John Hansell

Strangely enough, the answer to both questions is “no”!

I heard it from a little bird (a very important little bird who knows about these things) that Ardbeg Supernova will most likely be an “occasional” release, depending on suitable stock (i.e., having enough whisky with a peating level that high).

And, since I know you’re going to ask, I might just come out and say it: yes, there WILL be a 2010 release of Ardbeg Supernova. Now, if that isn’t good news for the day, I don’t know what is.

Thank you, little bird. Stop by again soon.

Category: New Releases, Scotch whisky Tags: 66 Comments

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